This post is dedicated to my wonderful Brazilian sister, who not only has the same loud laugh and love of food that I do, she is the one who introduced me to Pasteis de Belem four years ago. I am eternally grateful for your friendship (and the Pasteis!).
I hinted in the previous post that this was controversial. Eyebrows were raised amongst the land, including mine. HOS almost had a fit when I told him.
You see, there are some things in this world that just are. And the Pasteis de Nata (Portuguese Tarts) at Pasteis de Belem, in the suburb of Belem, Lisbon (right next to the Monasterio dos Geronimos), just are the most perfect tarts in the entire world. End of story. I was introduced to these divine morsels of heaven four years ago - and have been back on an annual pilgrimage ever since. No kidding.
These gifts from above were originally made by the monks at the monastery next door - they sold them out the front of their enormous monastery to make money. One day, as legend has it (according to my source, a local taxi driver 3 years ago), the monks sold the recipe to one man who set up shop next to the monastery, and well...the rest is history, they've been there ever since. According to my source (aforementioned taxi driver) an American company offered millions to buy the recipe from the owners (still the same original family) so they could expand and build a chain. NO GO! Pasteis de Belem has one location and one location only - and only the family knows the recipe of these famous treasures.
So, they have extended and extended as word got out, and now Pasteis de Belem is literally a labyrinth of rooms, tiled with beautiful blue and white traditional Portuguese tiles, where hundreds of people can sit down and eat these pastries. And that's what you go there for. You sit, order a plate full of pastries (I recommend 2 each to start), a drink (you can get the fab Brazilian soft drink, Guarana, there) or espresso, wait for them to arrive. When they do, sprinkle some icing sugar or cinnamon (or both - though I prefer just the cinnamon) and enjoy. Just writing is making my mouth water. Oh these wonderful crispy buttery layers of paper thin pastry, holding warm gooey sweet vanilla custard with a little bit of burn on top...nothing is finer in this world.
And one of the best parts, other than the actual eating, is watching the world around you. This is a haunt for locals and tourists. Go there on a Sunday morning and you can see all the Portuguese matrons there in their black after Mass devouring a plate full as they natter away. Whole families swarm in looking for a table, then platefuls of tarts arrive and are devoured over much laughing and shouting! It's a total treat for the senses.
Anyway, I'm getting carried away. Back to the controversy.
Ms Carmen informs me when I arrive that she believes she has found a Pastelaria (cake shop, snack bar type thing) that makes better Portuguese Tarts than Pasteis de Belem.
I kid you not.
That's what she said.
Heresy.
Hmmmmmm. She said that a local place, Pastelaria Lusa, which is just literally down the road from where she lives in Amadora (a 20 min drive out of Lisbon) - she declares they are sweeter and better. Now, such words are not to be taken lightly, as Ms Carmen has a very fine palate - we are very similar in our gourmet likes and dislikes - so I had no choice but to take her seriously.
Off we went. To taste.
You can see above, all the pics from the front of the shop, Pastelaria Lusa, the window, inside, and of course the tarts. Now these guys are smart - they call their tarts Folhadinhos de Nata Caseiro, which roughly translated means "Home-Made Little Leaves of Cream", a pretty apt description actually.
I liked the place. All locals, no tourists ever venture out here, and the place was humming. They got a laugh out of me taking photos even! And the taste? Well. I had to agree with Carmen that they were pretty spectacular, and would do me any day of the week - especially as they are so close to her place! BUT...in my hear of hearts, deep deep down, Pasteis de Belem will always be the one for me, it was love at first sight 4 years ago, and well...as some people say, true love lasts a lifetime!
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