USA 12 - Graceland and BBQ

And the nutty Memphis food adventure continues.

Today began with watching the famous Peabody Duck Walk in our hotel lobby - a tradition dating back almost 100 years, where ducks who live on the roof take the lift at 11am each morning to the Lobby, walk a red carpet to the lobby fountain (in front of a lot of tourists with cameras - including me) where they happily play all day, then waddle back to the lift at 5pm to go home to the roof. Very bizarre.

And then there was Graceland.

WOW. No words. FANTASTIC. MOVING. FASCINATING. A MUST. (Ok, maybe a few words).

Then there was Neely's.

Neely's had featured in a book about BBQ in Memphis I had read before starting the big journey. I photocopied it. I started the day with it in my hot little hand.

After Graceland, I set the Satnav, and off we went. Neely's is a locally owned place, with 4 restaurants around Tennessee - three here in Memphis and one in Nashville. They boast "Voted best ribs in Memphis" and "Voted best ribs in Nashville".

It's a real cute wood-panelled place with booths and tables and checkered table cloths - as soon as you walk in, the overpowering smell of tangy bbq sauce hits you and it's sooooooooooooooooooooo GOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOD. We were salivating.

Good ol' HOS ordered the Rib Dinner - a half rack of pork ribs with sides of bbq spaghetti (yes, you read right), and french fries. I, on the other hand, ordered what Memphis is really famous for...Pulled Pork. Pulled Pork means that the pork meat has been hand stripped and shredded after is has been slow cooked - it came on a plate in a big mess with wonderful, bbq sauce - sauce of the Memphis gods. It also came with two sides - and I had the traditional cole (slaw) and beans (baked). FAR OUT BRUSSEL SPROUT.

Just like Graceland, there are no words. How do I describe the obscene deliciousness of this meal??? The sweet, spicy pulled pork with that glorious, messy, dark and corrupted bbq sauce???? How do I ever get that across to you in bloody words???? IT WAS BLOODY BLOODY BLOODY GOOD. Best baked beans I've ever eaten. Best everything I've ever eaten. And HOS's ribs?? OHHHHHH MYYYYYY GOODNESSSSSS - DIVINEEEEEEE. Yes, it's all extremes and superlatives here in mouthwatering Memphis.

The best bit was when our beautiful Southern waitress, Tanicia, came past and placed a plate full of very shiny buns on our table. That's right - you can see them there above, they actually shined - it was melted butter poured over the top of the steamed rolls!! OH YEAH BABY. My mind started ticking over....tick tick tick...I grabbed roll, opened it, wacked a heap of pulled pork on it, then a slather of baked beans, then topped it with a big spoonful of cole (slaw). HOS just watched. I tasted. Eyes closed. And just tasted that divine mixture, all masticated and blending together...oh heavenly Memphis BBQ - I'm in luuuuurv!!!

I am more than a little embarrassed to say that through lunch, I devoured three of these rolls. In fact, I'm more than a little embarrassed to say that we demolished both of our plates of food. I just couldn't stop eating. I just couldn't. All sense went out the window. I had a new respect for my larger than large fellow patrons - I understood what they were giving up to be able to eat this divine food from the Memphis gods. Health, fitness, and fitting into a pair of jeans is nothing compared to the immensely fulfilling joys of Neely's BBQ. And the scary thing is...I'm not joking.

I have to put in a special mention to aforementioned Tanicia - this girl was soooooo good, that even though I was only halfway through my ginormous lemonade (made from a little lemon and a lot of sugar), she came past and put another full one right next to it for me - she thought I was running a little low (I'm still not used to the fact you pay one price for a drink, about 80 cents, and it's free refills). Now, that's good southern service for you!

As we left Neely's, moaning and waddling a little (just like this morning's ducks) - I turned to HOS and said..."you know, if I lived in Memphis, I don't reckon I'd make it past 43", and as I write, HOS's words from this evening haunt me "Food here just doesn't make any sense at all". You're so right my love, so right. I bloody love it.