Finland 2 - Attack of the Killer Seagull & Other Foodie Things

Yes, I was attacked by a killer seagull.

That's it there above in the first pic, bloody bugger.

You see, each morning in Helsinki (except for one), I would skip the hotel breakfast and take the 3 minute walk down to the Harbour to the old foodhall, Vanha Kauppahalli (or Gamla Saluhallen in Swedish - Finland has two official languages, Finnish and Swedish). I would buy my breaky there, and just hang with the locals.

Well on the second day of my coolish attempt at not being a tourist, I made the biggest tourist blunder imaginable. I ordered my fabulously quirky Whitefish Bread (pic 2) - which was heavenly by the way...wonderfully silky raw whitefish with delicious pink peppercorns and fresh dill on top, all on top of a piece of leaden black bread - and my coffee, and wandered outside to sit in the sun and watch the world go by on the beautiful Harbour.

Yes, well. BIG MISTAKE. All I can say is that I was lucky I took a couple of bites before I left the foodhall...in less than two steps towards the harbour I heard the flapping of giant wings...saw a flash, then screamed as one giant seagull took the whole piece of fish from the bread I had 2 inches from my mouth, and another bloody giant seagull then came for the bread - STRAIGHT OUT OF MY HAND. I was stunned - as were all the Russian tourists who had arrived to enjoy their Saturday on the Helsinki Harbour and heard my screams followed by my rather uncouth swearing at said killer seagulls who seemed to have no shame in waiting around for more! Bloody Nora.

Oh well, after my swearing had turned to laughter, I sat on one of the tie-up ship metal things and enjoyed the sun, the view...and my coffee!

So, sportsfans, the moral of the story is make sure you go and explore the wonderful old foodhall down on the harbour - but DON'T take it outside!

And while you're at the foodhall, check out the local specialties...there's the very wacky Finnish tradition of Pirakka, which is like a pastry - and you can see there (pic 5) the traditional Riisipirakka, which is pastry with a rice porridge filling. These are just too wacky for words...they are savory, and well a bit wrong in my view...but hey, we eat Vegemite! You can get different types of these traditional Pirakka, like pumpkin, or potato, but they are always savoury. Having said that, you can see up there a Blueberry danish type thing, this is a Mustikka-Pirakka, which is a blueberry danish, but with a twist. The Finns, and Swedes for that matter, seem to love putting cardamon in their pastries and bread - both sweet and savoury, and it sooooooooooooo works.

You can also see one of my favourite little morsels up there (pic7), Munkkipossy, or "Little Pig". This is soooooooooo yum. It's essentially a donut in the shape of a pig but with an apple jam inside. I um had more than one of these during my stay here in Helsinki...BUT I NEVER ATE THEM OUTSIDE!

There's more food there from the foodhall. You can see the focus on seafood, both dried, cured, raw, and ready for the Russian delicacy of Blini. I ate fried whitebait for breakfast one morning which was so good, and reminded me of my previous trip to Helsinki about 12 years ago with a van full of kids! I'll never forget HOS and I looking on stunned as the kids (aged 9-14 at the time, I think) devoured fried whitebait, fried salmon and copious amounts of the sweetest forest berries imaginable at the Harbour Market Square, which is just next to the foodhall. Go figure. Unfortunately, all the Harbour Market Square had to offer at this time of year was Cranberries, vegies, and fur...it's not really the same, is it?!

The food really was excellent in Helsinki, from the ravings above, to a simple cafe lunch along the water's edge at Cafe Ursula (pic 10), to the famous Finnish chocolate company, Fazer's outlet off the Esplanade and next to the cinema, and even extending to yum gourmet chocolates, and tacky but wonderful Ben & Jerry's (perfect for after the Swimming Bath, pure hedonism!). If you're there in the cold, like me, then a Hot Chocolate in the elegant Kappeli on the Esplanade (final pic), is a must - it's not the most amazing hot chockie in the world...but god, it's the most romantic!

Now, Helsinki also has some incredible restaurants. People recommended The Fish Market on the Esplanade and Sea Horse in the beautiful old streets behind my hotel. I didn't eat at either...I seemed to have a Russian bent, and went looking for some Ruski food! And found it. MMMMMMMMMMMMM...read on...